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My Shetland Vararfeldur -Day 6

June 20, 2014, 3:11 pm
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Back to work today. 

I did a little work this morning ... then I have been weaving. Sigrid has worked steadily most of the day on fleece for the pile. It gets used up fast but there is still quite a lot prepared.

Here is where we left the loom today. 50cm woven - one quarter done.
 The first quarter finished so I will change the colours and the colour mix to make the next quarter lighter. Tomorrow we need to roll the weaving up on the top beam, and the stones will have to be lowered before I start weaving again.

Sigrid goes home tomorrow, and that leaves only me to work with the fleece, weave and put in the pile ....... anybody want to help. PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE!!!


A close up showing the colours.
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My Shetland Vararfeldur - Day 7

June 21, 2014, 3:39 pm
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Sigrid went home today but we did take time to roll the weaving up on the top beam before we went to the airport.

Weaving rolled up on the top beam

Stones to be moved down the loom
With the weaving rolled up the loom, the stones needed to be lowered. My shed rod is fixed and quite low, and with the distance the weaving was rolled up, I needed to put a spare heddle rod in place to hold the shed until the stones were lowered. You can see the fluff from the yarn on the floor - maybe should have swept that before I took the photo. But also, you can see the cardboard we set behind to lessen the damage to the wall - the stones were really hitting the wall hard at times!


Stones lowered and board back in place, raised on some books, so I can reach the weaving which is now at the top of the loom. A good use for encyclopedias and catalogues.





All ready to weave again, but then I decided to rethink how I put the colours in to the next 3/4 of the weaving. So the weaving will wait until tomorrow.






















I will also need to prepare more fleece. Although Sigrid prepared a lot of fleece yesterday and left a quite a bit of fleece ready to go into the Vararfeldur, it gets used up very quickly. There is black, moorit, dark grey and fawn ready to use, and light grey and white to work in as well.






Progress will be slower now, so will blog perhaps once a week from now on.
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My Shetland Vararfeldur - Week 2

June 30, 2014, 12:13 pm
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One full week working on my own on the feld, and I figured if I did 25cm each week then I could finish in 6 weeks. For the first week - I failed, only 15cm have been woven. I will have to play 'catch up' this next week to get on track. I will have help one day from Mary, as pay back for helping to 'roo' her rams. That could be a whole day of weaving, and with the 2 of us working I might be ahead of schedule after that. 





15cm woven on the 2nd quarter of the feld, with a colour change - very light grey with a little black and dark grey.










A question was asked regarding what a Vararfeldur is exactly. It is a Viking age cloak, the word means a cloak which is a sale item. 'Vara' is where the English word for 'wares' comes from - sale goods. They were made in Iceland, mainly around the 12th and 13th century's, and many being sold to Norway. The Icelandic fleece is perfect for the tufts on these, and as the Icelandic law book, which still exists, documented much of the textiles which were made, we have a good description of the details of the cloak.

The Law Book states:
It measures 1 metre by 2 metres (approx, in today's measurements). 
There are 13 tufts in every row. 

There is a piece surviving in Iceland where we can see the thickness and set of the backing, and as the 'knot' has been analysed and documented, we have all the information needed to reproduce the Vararfeldur. 

The finished item mimics a sheep skin, but is a larger piece, and so works as a cloak which easily wraps round the whole body. It will stay as a soft fabric where a skin may become harder in time, will be easier to dry when it gets wet, but will keep the wearer as dry as a skin does.


 


This is a Vararfeldur which we made in Norway. You can see the tufts all lying in one direction - from the top edge of cloak to the bottom. To finish it we took it outside, (laid it on a sheet), wet it and walked on it. No other washing or finishing was done, but it worked well.




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My Shetland Vararfeldur - Week 3

July 9, 2014, 10:02 am
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I am back on track - half done.

Change of colour - this is mainly from a light grey fleece.





Thanks to a full day with myself and Mary both working the second 50 cm is complete. 


For comparison - this is the first part, much darker.




























I worked on preparing the fleece, and Mary did the weaving. She had never worked on this loom before, but she did very well. I wondered if I would keep her supplied with fleece - it does take time as we had found out while working on the previous vararfeldurs - but I did, just!

Mary needed her photo taken with her achievement.
The last 2/3rds of the weaving is her work - well done.



























Before we finished, we wound the weaving up on the top of the loom. My next job would be to move all those stones down below the shed bar before starting to weave on my own again.














Mary had a couple of photos of the rams that we rooed, and some of the the ewes with their lambs.


Looking good, but staying well away from humans.....just in case.....
They did not want any more funny stuff from us, - had enough of rooing, drenching and trimming feet.

Some of the ewes coming to see what was going on.
Beautiful view over the loch to the cliffs and the sea in the background.

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Fair Isle Allovers

July 13, 2014, 2:17 pm
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I thought it might be time to catch up on some handspun garments instead of the vararfeldur. The real work has still been going on as well as the weaving! Two Allovers (Fair Isle jumpers) have been finished recently.

This one, a slipover, in the Mousa design but with madder red and onion yellow in the ribs and a small amount through the Fair Isle. It is a good design just in the black and greys, but with the red and yellow it is that little bit extra special.

Mousa design Slipover ready to be packaged and posted


The next Allover is washed and on the jumper board drying, and will be off to its owner tomorrow. Black and greys again, this one is Neesik - Shetland name for the Porpoise.


A perfect day for drying jumper outside.

And another good use for a jumper board.....


.......3 shades of fawn handspun yarns needed for commissions, and for stock. The jumper board is perfect to hang hanks and tension then while they are drying.

Here are a selection of other designs from Shetland Handspun.

Shetland Handspun
Selkie 





Shetland Handspun
Tammie Norrie
















Shetland Handspun
Trowie Sweater





Shetland Handspun
Trowie design in Blues













Shetland Handspun
Bonxie 



Shetland Handspun
Njuggle Waistcoat









Shetland Handspun Neesik Fair Isle Allover


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2014

December 22, 2014, 12:21 pm
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Just a few days of 2014 left now. Time to catch up and recount something of the past year.

My blogs started off well in the Spring, then as the summer arrived I just never seemed to have enough time and the blog suffered. Time to fill in the gaps from Shetand Handspun's year. It was exceptionally busy however with several trips which made it harder to keep up with production.

The Vararfeldur started in June is still not finished. It has progressed slowly and continues to grow slowly, but spinning and knitting work needed to take priority.  

June, July and August, is the main tourist season, and 'stay at home' time to see visitors to the Studio and there are always many interesting tourists from all over the world.

An invitation from Norway to attend a Wool event in Bergen at the end of August saw 9 of us from Shetland spending a wonderful week there. Teaching Fair Isle and Lace knitting workshops, demonstrating and giving talks on various textile subject. We were given space for an exhibition and for sales tables as well. There were also trips to the Hillesvag Wool Mill and Oleana knitwear factory, and some wonderful food and company, (and a little bit of shopping too). A very successful week but my camera didnt seem to take any photos! (or I was having too much fun).





I did get a few photos from some of the others. This one of myself, Wilma Malcolmson and Hazel Tindall, out for a walk at the Heathland Centre, ...




















... and this - 2 generations of owners of the Hillesvag Wool Mill, Norway with 2 generations of owners of the Sandness Mill, Shetland. Taken during our visit to the Hillesvag Wool Mill.










September took me to Iceland, and the North Atlantic Native Sheep and Wool Conference.
The invitation to talk was as a result of a project of ongoing research into the warp-weighted loom, - Hildur from Iceland, Marta from Norway and myself talked about native wool use on the old loom, each talking from our own countries aspect. 

We dressed in Viking costume and set up a loom which we worked on during the talks. With the help of an Icelandic and a norwegian viking spinning and weaving bands, we had a good tableau of textile product to accompany our talks. 






During Hildur's Icelandic talk, with Marta weaving and myself spindle spinning.


We had a few excursions during the conference. This to see the sheep brought off the mountain ranges and watch them being sorted before all are taken indoors for the winter.










Everyone got a gift of a mitten kit from the wool mill - this design aptly named 'Volcano' - and designed especially for the occasion of our visit. Apt as we were all in Iceland at the start of the latest eruption. Here is the first pair that was completed.






Here are several photos from the Viking feast at the end of the conference - wonderful food and wonderful company.
The banquet table
Looks like a good discussion at the top of the table.
















Our Icelandic Viking

Lena from Sweden and Deb from the US - knitters are never idol.

The journey back to the airport was across the mountains, with views of the glaciers, to see the terrain where the sheep have been all summer. No tarmac roads and desert vegetation, and near arctic weather now in september. But facinating to see. Here is a view from the bus.







Home again, thankfully with no delays due to the volcano, with only a few weeks till Shetland Wool Week starts, and that would be 9 days non-stop both work and fun. Niela, from Niela Nel Studio, and myself, with help from a few others, put on workshops and drop-ins in the Hoswick Visitor Centre in Sandwick. Again too busy to take photos, but I did remember on one day only - so here are a few.



Always need a cup of tea/coffee before we get started.
My lace design class concentrating hard!


Niela's dye class making very practical use of black rubbish bags as aprons - perfect.
The drop-in area was well used all week whether we had a tutor available or not.

Wool Week over and only another few weeks till the Christmas Craft Fair in Lerwick. Always well attended with stall holders and customers - more stock required. I did however have to look after grandchildren and do some research, so the spinning was minimal. Craft Fair over and time to - do some housework, prepare for Christmas, have a rest.....

There was a load of spinning done, then dyeing with logwood and cochineal...that can keep till the next blog.

In the meantime I wish you all a very merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous New Year. 

Thanks for reading my blog.
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Cochineal and Logwood

February 11, 2015, 4:47 am
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Must try harder .... has to be my aim for 2015 ... at least for blog posts.

I will start this year with the yarn I dyed before our Craft Fair in November last year.





The colours are not quite true, but the photo does show the range of colours I got from the cochineal and logwood dyes.









Logwood blues are one of my favourites. It is such a deep, dark blue, especially with a grey yarn as a base. For these dye baths I did use white yarn as well as a grey and a fawn, so 3 shades from most of the baths.




The lighter shades of the Logwood dyed yarns took on a slight purplish tone. 

These blue hanks are set aside for a customer at the moment while she decides on her project and the quantity of yarn she needs.









Cochineal colours, 1st and 2nd dye baths, with white, grey and fawn yarn - 6 distinct shades.









Then the purples. Cochineal from both baths overdyed in different Logwood baths. No white as a base colour for these, grey and fawn only. The combinations are endless - I aimed for 6 shades of purple - good results, I think.

Some of these purples are now allocated to a yoke cardigan which has been ordered.


Good result!
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Shetland Textile Museum Exhibition 2015

May 20, 2015, 5:23 am
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I have the privilage to be part of this years exhibition at the Shetland Textile Museum. This year the museums display is entitled -  "Makers' Choice". The trustees asked individual Shetland makers to choose a piece from the Museums collection which they liked, or which "spoke" to them, or which they had been inspired by. Then those chosen pieces would be displayed beside a piece of work by the maker relating to that inspiration.

So off I went to take a look through the photos - and I found a small 'kep' (hat). 

What drew me to the hat was the colours - bright natural dyes, as well as the design. It is in what is called traditional colours but it seemed to me to have a different look than the usual combination.


The original has natural white and moorit and dyed colours of red from madder, two blue shades from indigo, and a yellow which could have been from a number of natural dye stuffs. The yarn is commercially spun lace weight yarn. There are some mistakes in the motifs but other than that the knitting is perfect.




My copy and 2 matching toorie hats, both in handspun yarn and natural dyed colours, which are now in the Museum for sale. 

















I knitted a copy of the hat and used madder for red, logwood for blue, and onion for yellow. My copy is in my handspun yarn but a thicker yarn than the original, so that my hat is bigger and I had to leave out one pattern repeat. My madder red is not as red as the original, and, as I have used logwood for the blues, the lighter blue is not the clear indigo blue but has a purplish tinge too it.

A bonus for me in finding this piece is that it was donated by Mavis Robertson, whom I had known from my school days.

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A new design - HAIRST

July 25, 2015, 11:26 am
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A new design for dags and toories was past due, and something a little different for me. This time I have included natural dyed colours.





The natural colours are 2 fawns and moorit. The dyed colours are logwood blue, lichen and 2 onion yellows, one dyed on white and the other on a light grey.















A peerie pattern is added in this Toorie and a simple crown in fawn and moorit with a touch of blue. The wirsties do have a slit for a thumb so can be worn as dags or a wrist warmer.




The square hat and lang dags shows all the patterns I have used in the Hairst design.



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Using a Shetland 'kep' pattern from the museum.

August 16, 2015, 8:20 am
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Fisherman's 'Keps' are usually thought of as a Fair Isle hat, but they were knitting throughout the Shetland mainland as well. It is the same hat except that the patterns in the Shetland hats are all 'peerie' patterns. There are a couple of examples on display in the Shetland Museum, and I have, in the past, used one of these designs in a square hat.

I have now knitted this same design in a waistcoat, requested by a customer. 



The shade of the colours are a little different but for natural and natural dyed colours they are never the same. Here it is, ready to be posted, and with a square hat to match.
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North Atlantic Native Sheep and Wool Conference, Faeroe

September 21, 2015, 8:59 am
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This week is the final preparation time for Wool Week - 9 days of workshops, both hard work and fun, meeting old friends and making new ones. 

However last week I set off for Faeroe to the Wool Conference. It was a wonderfully different week, lots of very interesting talks, discovering more about the Short Tail sheep in neighbouring countries.  

My talk was about my journey in textiles, from knitting as a child, to my business today working with handspun yarns and handknit garments, and including my interest and research into the ancient textiles and the warp-weighted Loom.

Next year the conference is in Lofoten, would love to go but not sure if I can fit it in.

But this was Faeroe and I did find the Faeroese Scotrok...


















      

  ... and some nice coloured Faeroese ewes ...


... loved that dark grey face in the centre of this group.

                                                                ... and a stunning ram ...



Then the scenery and the views - WOW .......









So now I am back home and back to work ..... just a few days before myself and Niela (www.nielanell.com) set up at the Hoswick Visitor Centre ready for Wool Week classes. 

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WIN A BAA-BLE HAT

September 24, 2015, 5:00 pm
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A Baa-ble hat designed for this years Shetland Wool Week by Donna Smith, knitted in my handspun yarn, in a mix of natural Shetland colours, as well as natural and chemical dyed yarns.



Decide for yourself what the scene in the hat is – I see - sheep on the foreshore on a winter night with the Merrie Dancers in the sky above!

You dont have to be in Shetland to win, send an email, or a PM on facebook, with your name and address and I will add to the draw.

            The winner will be drawn at Makers market on Saturday 3rd October.
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Baa-ble hat winner

October 16, 2015, 3:41 am
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We have a winner for the Baa-ble hat. 

The winning ticket was drawn at the Maker's Market. Donna was teaching a class next to the Market, so Selina and I gate-crashed quietly and got her to draw the winning ticket.








                           Congratulations Lynette.
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Catch up - and what is next?

January 29, 2016, 5:01 am
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The winter is supposed to be the time to relax a little after the busy summer, catch up with orders, increase stock levels, but also plan for the coming year. All in all that makes for a busier time than the summer.

My last blog was after Wool Week with the winner of my Baa-ble hat. With a good wool week behind me and very little stock remaining, and a few weeks to the Craft Fair, I hit the spinning wheel and the dye pots to get yarn and colour. I spun some worsted sock yarn, and jumper weight and lace weight yarns. Then dyed onion yellow, indigo blue and over-dyed for greens, leaving some as natural colours. 



Next it was back to the spinning wheel, yarn was needed for orders and stock.

But at the same time plans had to be put in place for 2016. So what next?

Firstly, The Edinburgh Yarn Festival in March, I have booked a stall at the Market, Friday 18th and Saturday 19th, and I am also teaching a class: Fair Isle - Colour blending, on Sunday 20th. 

I have a new scarf pattern for EYF,

Scarf detail



Hope to see a some of you there.

In May I set off for a trip to the US with my friend Martha Owen, we will be at 
The John C Campbell Folk School, North Carolina, www.folkschool.org; 
North House Folk School, Minnesota, www.northhouse.org; 
Vesterhiem Museum, Iowa, www.vesterheim.org; 
then I go on to Cordova, Alaska to take part in The Net Lofts Gansey Project, 
http://thenetloftak.com/pages/net-loft-calendar
We are still working on one more venue. 

Myself and Martha are really looking forward to our trip, it is a bit of an epic one, but it is so exciting - hope we dont get lost any where on the way.

And, of course, the classes for 2016 Wool Week have to be organised. That has taken up a lot of time this month but the plans for all the classes that myself and Niela set up in the Hoswick Visitor Centre are almost complete.

Fit Christmas, New Year and the Lerwick Up-Helly-Aa into the whole scheme of things, and it has been quite a busy winter so far.

Today is a good day to stay inside and work, we have 100 mile an hour justs of wind and a few heavy showers of rain. Hope it passes soon, but it is exciting to watch a storm like this. So far the power is still on, but I am remembering to hit the 'save' button, just in case.

One last item - For the past few years I have been working on a book on the Warp Weighted Loom with Hildur from Iceland, Marta from Norway, in conjunction with the Osterøy Museum in Norway. It is almost finished and should be available by the summer.





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Edinburgh Yarn Festival

March 30, 2016, 7:50 am
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Wow, that was a busy Festival!

I had a busy few months to spin yarn to get stock for the summer and the first event at Edinburgh. But orders were completed, a new pattern done - the Sprigs and Links of Love for a Scarf, Cowl and Gloves, 



















and a load of yarn spun, with enough to put together kits for Trowie and Njuggle hats and gloves.

Trowie Dags
Trowie Toorie Hat
Njuggle Dags


Njuggle Toorie Hat

Njuggle Square Hat
























With the car packed I set off for the ferry, thankfully with good weather. The only thing I was not looking forward to was the drive into Edinburgh, but it actually turned out to be very easy, such a relief.

Friday morning and I am ready for the doors to open at the Market, 9am for those going off to classes that morning, and 10am for the public. And wow, they streamed in. There was just a sea of people, everywhere, all morning, then thinned out a bit at lunch time. Luckily I had an assistant, my sister, Margaret, who talked to people non stop.

So good to get time to talk to folk myself in the afternoon and on the Saturday. Talked to many that I had met in Shetland at Shetland Wool Week, and at workshops while on textile holidays, then some of the girls I had met in Iceland. Not forgetting, of course, the Shetlanders: quite a few had come down to the Festival for shopping and classes who came and said hello, and this being Edinburgh there are lots of Shetlanders who stay now in Edinburgh. Thanks to you all for saying hello. All in all a very enjoyable Market - and sales were good too.

Did I take any photos - well just a few, very quickly, when it was quiet.

The shawl I wore at the Festival, 
as everyone was wearing their knitwear.
Handspun Lace yarn and madder dyed.
Jumper yarn, naturals and natural dyed,
and my lace jacket.
Kits, lace yarn, sock yarn, patterns,
and a shopper having a rest.





















One of the next patterns will be that lace jacket, it was greatly admired, so I have promised it for next year.







There are always extra projects that need to be fitted in to the schedule - here is one  - testing the Sprigs and Links of Love Cowl in another yarn. This is in Kate Davies new yarn, Buachaille, in Harr, Squall and Ptarmigan, it works in any yarn but just had to try it. This will be mine for next winter.








Next to fit into the workload will be the Ella's Wool Week Crofthoose Hat.
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My 2016 Wool Week Hat

May 23, 2016, 5:28 am
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Sunday 22nd May

I picked up a copy of Ella’s pattern for this year’s Wool Week hat when I was at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival (yes, I went all that way for the pattern? well not really, but I was there and it was there so I picked it up), and, I have at last got my hat knitted. It took a while but I found the time on my flight to the US this past week, on my way to start my US adventure.


I planned the colours for my hat in my handspun yarn, as usual, changed the colours a little, and used all naturals. What I did change was one of the rounds of crofthooses (sorry Ella). The idea popped into my head that it might be nice to have words in it, so I graphed out ‘shetland wool week croft hoose hat’. It almost fitted the stitches but not quite, so after some thought, I took out ‘week’ and put in ‘toorie’ (Shetland for ‘hat’) and that fitted perfectly. 


Hat finished, washed, dressed
Love the crown































































Didnt get it knitted before I left for the US. But it kept me occupied through the flight from Aberdeen to Amsterdam to Atlanta and then to Ashville, NC. A long flight with a few problems but it did get me to my destination - and the hat was done, and my US adventure with my friend Martha Owen had begun.


First stop here in the US is the John C Campbell Folk School, NC, where we are teaching 2 classes, a weekend class in Dyeing, which finished this morning, and a week class in dyeing, spinning and knitting which starts tonight.

The weekend class went really well, lots of colour, and good students, with some old friends among them. The time just went by too fast.












looking at samples of the dyed fleece and mixing the colours.



Today has been a long day so far and there is still more to do. It started with Martha and David at Morning Song at the Folk School at 7.45am, then to finish the class, and the student presentation, before a leisurely lunch and a rest (and finding a little time to write a blog) before Martha and I head back to the Folk School to meet the students for the next class and get that one started.

David and Martha at Morning Song 

But the sun is shining, it is warm with very little wind, and it is so relaxing sitting on the porch among the trees in North Carolina.

The US trip will continue with classes at North House, Minnesota; Vesterheim Museum, Iowa; The Trading Post for Fibres, Indiana; then Martha goes home and I continue to Cordova, Alaska; then home.



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US Tour

June 11, 2016, 6:09 am
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Almost half way through my US trip - it must be time to do a blog. The problem is that I have to find the time to do that, so I am up a little early this morning to get this done and posted. 

Most of this trip is working with my friend, Martha Owen, spinner, knitter, dyer, storyteller, banjo player and Resident Artist at the John C Campbell folk school where we started with 2 classes, dyeing, spinning and knitting.


Class results at John C Campbell Folk School. Yarn spun and knitted from fleece dyes in the class.






 
A garden.



 
Colours taken from a thunder storm.


 
Martha found a few dogs to play with on our day off between classes.


 Then on to the North House Folkschool for more dyeing, spinning and weaving.
 
Results of the dyeing class at Noth House Folk School.


 
Martha's spinning class at North House.


 
Heddles being knitted on the loom.



 
Heidi's weaving on the loom.


 ... and we are now at the Vesterheim Museum, just finished a dye class, and today we start a knitting class.
 
Some of the colour we dyed at the Vesterheim Museum.


 Hoping for a little cooler temperatures today and no thunder storms like last nights.









 
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Knitting class at Vesterheim Museum

June 14, 2016, 5:58 am
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The second class at Vesterheim Museum is done, and we have had a day off, which we spent in the museum viewing not only the exhibits, but also some of the Akle in the store with Laurann. It was wonderful to see those. We did also stay in Java Johns coffee shop much longer than we planned, it was good coffee and we kept finding more friends to talk to.

So here are a few photos of the designs which our students created in the class. The yarn was Jamieson & Smith and the colors were dyed during our dye class at Vesterheim.
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FROM INDIANA TO ALASKA

June 29, 2016, 1:30 pm
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The last two stops on my US trip are in Indiana and Alaska, but on the way to Indiana we stopped off to see some friends in Iowa - who just happened to have some Shetland sheep - just a peerie reminder of home. 


Bonnie ewes

Nice colours


We took a tour through their garden on our way to see the sheep.
























































On to Susan's in Indiana and a big class for dyeing, spinning and knitting, sadly I seemed to forget to take photos of the class, only got one of a load of wheels at lunch time - you can see it was a busy class...



I did remember to take photos of some of the fun times in the evening.










A few photos of the pool party.

















One of the dogs who kept us company.
















Then a browse round Susan's shop and a little more knitting before bedtime. It was such a great spot all of us to sit and knit or spin after supper. 










Then on to Cordova Alaska.........























The view from our cabin over Lake Eyak is stunning, even in the rain with cloud covering the mountains and the snow.











Just settling in and getting ready for the first class.
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Book Launch: The Warp-Weighted Loom I Oppstadveven I Kljásteinavefstaður

October 7, 2016, 4:39 am
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The Warp-Weighted Loom I Oppstadveven I Kljásteinavefstaður


Book Launch - Ist December 2016






For almost 6 years I have been working with 2 wonderful women, Hildur from Iceland and Marta from Norway, at the Osteroy Museum in Norway.

Our initial project was to produce an instruction book for the Warp-Weighted Loom. It developed into much more but the main purpose still remains an instruction on how to weave on the loom.

Our book now includes the history of the loom in each of our own countries - Iceland, Shetland and Norway, and the connections we uncovered are amazing. We have also included several papers on textiles and research relating to the loom.

Here is a link to more information on the book and how to pre-order.

http://www.muho.no/oster%C3%B8y-museum/ny-bok-om-oppstadveven-klingande-steinar


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